A Terrier Shall Rise

Lovely stroll around the Circus Maximus the other day. It was just like in that lovely movie 'Gladiator' with Russell Crowe. He's Welsh, isn't he?

I shall pee here again, but not yet, not yet.

Up hill and down dale?

Most of our excursions thus far include a hilly stroll - this morning I successfully proposed a stroll up through the charming backstreets and elegant low-rise blocks around S. Saba. I've never heard such wheezing as the Entourage emitted when climbing the three flights of marble steps leading up-hill. I thought I might have to nip them (purely for encouragement of course...). They seemed oblivious to the Classical resonances of the Aventine 'spur', and I start to feel that my little didactic lectures on our morning walks fall on deaf ears. This morning's walk was notable too for it's (relative) cool - tho as I sit dictating now it's in (I estimate) the mid-20s at least. How fortunate that I persuaded Mr E to bathe me this morning. It's intolerable to be 'ripe' in this weather. Or should I say 'climate'? Yesterday we explored 'our' end of Trastevere. The E has friends over there, with whom I've allowed them to take a couple of nights 'off-duty'. Our trip yesterday encompassed some more gems of Italian rationalism - the Nuovo Sacher cinema and adjoining block. It would have been helpful if someone could have lifted me up to get a clearer view of the vividly colourful mosaics, but cries of 'hot', 'fat', and 'stinker' somehow blended in the air when I made the polite request. Last night the Entourage blotted their collective copybook by omitting to include me innthe ice-cream order at Violorosso on P.zza S Maria Liberatrice. I was then forced to wait for a very long time as they sat on a bench and chattered. It was surely gone 22.30 when I persuaded them to accompany me back towards the pretty little thing with whom I've struck up a friendship; alas she had by then retired for the night, and so did I.

It was the best of times...

A delightful morning stroll saw us revisit S. Sabina (clearly a terrier of some note; memo to self - google her) and take in the air and view atbthe Orange Garden. A slightly milky haze over the city, but I still managed to point out some of the major sites which the feather-brained Es appear incapable of internalising. They spent some time mulling over the distinctness of the Vatican from the Gianicolo, when any fool could see the dip on the tree-line. We terriers are, of course, tree-experts. Home via the Tempio di Diana piazza, and a caffe on P.zza S. M. L. (my typing paws are weary). No-one offered me a cappuccino or cornetto, I think they were sulking in the face of my sagacity. It was also rather clammier, atmospherically, today. I don't dare look in the glass - my magnificent coat will be a frizz! I spent much of the day in contemplation, even refusimg a shopping trip to Volpetti! I think the excursion was planned on my behalf to make up for restraining me, at the mercy of my local fans, outside Panificio Passi this morning. The Es pretended to be oblivious, and returned raving about the cakes, meats and cheeses. Their bag of booty disappeared mysteriously when they left for an aperitivo and I can't pretend I was not disappointed. Surely they should ave known that I too would enjoy making a new friend? Disconsolate, I raided the snack-dispenser and ave spent the evening in (very well-filled) dudgeon.

Far niente...

I feel at last that I'm settling in. It's taken a week (and yesterday's hot and uncomfortable ride on the 30 didn't help) but I'm something of a local fixture by now... Our strolls around the Aventine continue to delight, and E rather put out (I suspect) by the number of friend requests I receive from the Testaccio beau-monde. They have a few acquaintances of course, but the kinds of meaningful discourse one can plug into whilst doing olfctory lamp-post researches are beyond them... I introduced them to a charming couple when we shared an aperitivo and nibbles in the dying light of P.zzz Augusto Imperatore following our suset stroll atop the Pincio nymphaeum yesterday. And I must say my generosity paid off and they've allowed me a restful day in today's heat. I may take them out for an ice-cream later, to reward them.

Park life

A pleasant enough stroll this morning with my minders around my local park, dedicated to the partisans and naturally full of bloated Fascist symbolism. Alas, the intricate ducts and channels of the 1930s water features were largely in disrepair. Say what you will about Mussolini, at least he made the drains run on time...

Then on to the pleasant suburbs of the lower Aventine - these should be mine. As should the sofa, on which Mr and Mrs E *insist on sitting*! Really, there seems to be no end to the training they require.

Both are now playing with their tappy toys, but I heard mention of a bus excursion to the Villa Sciarra later, followed by a beer - mine's a Peroni.

Historical passeggiata

I managed to drag the reluctant Entourage on a distinctly improving stroll this morning. They had, I think, hoped to skulk around a caffe instead (having stayed out late enjoying themselves without me last night, a concept I find impossible to grasp properly. It makes my head hurt...).

Instead I marched them down the Tiber past the monumental works of ‘il fascismo’, and to the Cloaca Maxima outlet. They were making some sort of weak joke about ‘puer’ and ‘sewer’ which I chose to ignore. Their puerility astonishes me occasionally (although to be fair, and I am a fair-minded to a fault, they were stern in my defence when we were confronted by a violent dog on our perambulation round Monte Testaccio last night...)!

I managed to ignore the morning bleating about ‘breakfast’ and ‘coffee’ as far Ponte Palatino, at which point I gave up on the plan to continue their classical education and led them home. Pah!

A vision of hell...?

This morning, very early before I'd fully digested my breakfast, Entourage proposed a stroll. Seemed like a good idea, but rather than a bracing constitutional up the Aventine to inhale the sweet pine scents of the Orange Garden, instead they took me to a kind of hellish place, a place where no doggy sniffs could be discerned... They claimed it was the 'Covered Market' but I find it hard to believe anyone could enjoy (let alone make purchases in) the pungent intensity of the atmosphere created by those sights and smells, drowning out everything else to one whose olfactory senses are as acute as mine! I took them home directly. They'll know better next time. I requested to be left in a darkened room to recover. They braved the strike-day chaos; a mistake, and they came home chastened after a series of what seem to have been unfortunate events. They then ate cold meat, drank beer, and ate cake. I was not offered anything. I suspect they are jealous of my judgement. A gentle stroll later will perk them up.

Across the Alps by Terrier

That Tunisian poof with the elephants had the right idea crossing into northern Italy in winter. How lovely and cool they must have been. I, on the other hand, entered Italy on a day of blazing heat and brilliant sunshine. My Doggles, the hot sunglasses brand that everyone will be wearing this time next year, were the must-have accessory du jour.

I am not one to complain, but I must say the standard of in-palanquin service was very poor on this last leg of the trip. Not once was I offered complimentary ice-cream, sherbets, or any refreshment appropriate to this oppressive heat - plentiful water was provided, but the meanest of cafes would offer the same. Time and again, well-meaning strangers approached bearing (I presume) platters of tantalising sweetmeats, but my heartless chauffeur whisked me away at top speed. Such a gruelling pace I endured.

We were at least in Rome in time for a late supper, and our entry into the city was magnificent - all were suitably cowed by the potency of my throbbing mount. That night, I dined on boar with apple and redcurrant. Much more in my line than the gruel-and-water diet of the road, which frankly would disgrace a Victorian gaol.

Rome or kibble! Or have I got that somehow wrong?

Perhaps I should have entitled this ‘Rome AND kibble!’ Ms E promises to spend much of the day preparing for my advent. I find it disturbing that she imagines one day to be enough prep-time, but we’ll see.

This morning, awoke to find myself in Italy under increasingly Mediterranean skies. We’ve managed a ‘comfort-break’ - I would happily have used the indoor facilities but Mr E was keen to sniff the air. I have a long ride ahead of me today, especially with the added weight of Mr E behind me.

But even now I’m imaging us roaring into Rome just like in Fellini’s Colosseum scene (‘Roma'). Ms E observes that it may be more like the scooter-ride in ‘Roman Holiday’ but she just doesn’t understand the way an open road and a large engine call to a dog of my sensibilities!

A souvenir of my trip so far...

Somewhere in Holland... Oddly, I appear to have become tied up, but my palanquin is well-displayed and I think my sleek coat and aristocratic features feature elegantly. Now, to bed, once I’ve checked out the on-board facilities on this auto-train...

Siamo arrivati domani!

Mr E is managing the palanquin very effectively. He is to be commended! I will post some pix once I’ve got the airbrush going. Ms E regales us with stories of a nearby emporium for Terrier-Needs. She has not yet, worryingly, purchased my bed. But I trust her to do what’s right.

Tonight, I sleep on the clickety-clack tracks as Mr E and I zip through the Alps and arrive bright and early at Alessandria, then, a Roma! I understand that dogs are allowed to bring accompanying Entourages into shops, restaurants, and markets; what a civilised country. How I look forward to nosing thro the market stall detritus in Testaccio...